CARE
OF THE BITCH IN WHELP
You can expect the puppies nine weeks from the day of breeding, although 58 days is as common as 63. During this time the female should receive normal care and exercise. If she is overweight, don't increase her food at first; excess weight at whelping time is not good. If she is on the thin side, build her up, giving her a morning meal. She should be getting pet tabs (vitamin) as a daily supplement. During the last weeks of gestation the puppies grow enormously, and the mother will have little room for food and less appetite. Divide her meals into smaller portions and feed her more often. If she loses her appetite, tempt her with meat, liver, chicken, etc.
As she grows
heavier, eliminate violent exercise and jumping. Do not eliminate exercise
entirely, as walking is beneficial to the female in whelp, and mild exercise
will maintain her muscle tone in preparation for birth. Some females have
a slight discharge during gestation and after giving birth. Clear to cloudy
to brownish-red is normal. A dark green discharge indicates a problem and
you should see your veterinarian immediately!
A week before your bitch is due to give birth prepare an area for her that is quiet and cozy. A child's pool from Walmart works well. Old towels make good bedding because, they can be laundered regularly. Allow the mother to sleep there overnight or to spend time in it during the day to become accustomed to it. Then she is less likely to try to have her pups under the front porch or in the middle of your bed. If you like to keep your house fairly cool in the summer time, close off the vent where the mother and pups will be to avoid drafts. You can also place a heat lamp above the pool to keep the air around it warm. Cold is the number one killer of young pups.
Now you should begin taking your bitch's temperature rectally twice a day around the same time and keeping a record. The normal temperature of a dog is 100.5 - 102.5. When your bitch is close to giving birth, her temperature will drop below 100 . The onset of labor will begin with panting and restlessness.
During the
birth, if necessary, be prepared to remove membranes covering the puppy's
head if the mother fails to do this, for the puppies could smother otherwise.
The mother should start licking the puppy as soon as it is out of the sac,
thus drying and stimulating it, but if she does not perform this task you
can do it with a rough towel, instead. The afterbirth should follow the
birth of each puppy, attached to the puppy by the umbilical cord. Watch
to make sure that each is expelled, for retaining this material can cause
infection. The mother will probably eat the afterbirth after biting the
cord. This will stimulate milk supply as well as labor for the-remaining
puppies.
If a puppy does not start breathing, wrap it in a towel, hold him upside down with his head towards the ground, and shake him downward, being careful to support his head. Rub him briskly with a towel and remove any debris from his mouth and nose with a bulb syringe.
The puppies
should follow each other at regular intervals. Deliveries can be as short
a 5 minutes or as long as two hours apart. If the mother is in labor and
showing visual signs of contractions, but has not passed a puppy or has
gone longer than 2 hours in between puppies, she may be in trouble and
you should see your veterinarian. It is a good idea to record the time
when a puppy arrives if possible, so you can keep track of how long she
is taking between intervals. A puppy, may be presented backwards; if the
mother does not appear to be in trouble, do not interfere. But if enough
of the puppy is outside the birth canal, use a rough towel and help her
by pulling gently on the puppy. Pull only when she pushes.
When you think all the puppies have been whelped, have your veterinarian examine the mother to determine if all of the after births have been expelled. He will probably give her an injection to be certain that the uterus is clean and possibly an injection of penicillin to prevent infection. Be sure to keep water available to her at all times.
Eclampsia,
or "milk fever", is caused by a lowered calcium content of the blood, due
to the bitch's depleting her body's calcium reserves for the production
of milk. If it occurs after whelping, the puppies and mother are in severe
danger. Help most be given immediately. The female stiffens her legs, has
pale gums, and is likely to have minor convulsions. Puppies must be taken
from her and calcium and dextrose administered to her intravenously. However,
this is a rare thing and the symptoms so obvious, that assuredly the owner's
first thought is that something is wrong and that the veterinarian is needed
at once. With proper nutrition during gestation and lactation, a lack of
calcium is not to be expected. The best preventive medicine is to see that
the female is parasite free, in good condition, and properly cared for
from the day she is mated. It would also be a good idea to supplement her
with pet-Cal (calcium) a week before she is due and until the time she
is dry after weaning the puppies. Check her mammary glands daily to ensure
they are not overly warm or have any hard lumpy spots. This could signal
infection and you should see your veterinarian.
Puppies
eyes begin to open at around 2 weeks of age. Teeth start to break in at
around 3 ½ weeks. You can begin feeding them at this time. Weaning
formula should consist of soaked in water dry puppy food, or a blended
mixture of dry puppy food, cottage cheese, canned food, and water, As they
get used to eating, gradually diminish the amount of moisture until they
are eating food that is completely dry. By six weeks of age, the mother
should be removed from the pups completely and put back an her normal diet
with continued calcium until she is dry. Cottage cheese added to the mother's
diet during nursing will aid in her milk production.
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